jalan petaling market kuala lumpur

Kuala Lumpur and the market

We headed off to the aiport and flew to Kuala Lumpur at lunchtime. After a bit of a problem at the airport with our luggage weight, we got our main bags sent through for the ongoing flight to the UK. The flight was good – only two hours – and we put the rest of our bags in storage at KL airport, so that we could explore KL for a few hours. We got tickets for the 45 minute train ride into the City and got a taxi to the market area of Jalan Petaling on Petaling Street. The market was packed with people and quite a shock from KK and resort/jungle life! We got a few bargains

kuala lumpur city

kuala lumpur centre

and asked a taxi to take us to a good restaurant, as we didn’t have a clue where to go. Big mistake – he took us to a Chinese, which was very Chinese – all the fresh seafood live in the water was good, if you like that sort of thing (not for me) and they had great big pots in the middle of the tables where people were taking soup from and mixing with no end of foodstuffs. We ordered Szechuan chicken which they warned us was hot, and we replied ‘yes, we know, we have it at home’ but this was something else – it was a dish of fried chilli’s where you had to hunt out the chicken – no sauce and it was so hot it was inedible – and we

klia train kuala lumpur

hottest dinner I have ever had kuala lumpur chinese

like hot food! The sweet and sour prawns were good and so was the vegetables, not to mention the cold tiger beers, but I was put off by that point.

A rush got us back in a taxi, onto the train and onto the plane back home.

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

tunku abdul rahman park sunset

beach tanjung aru

Tanjung Aru Resort

Highlights -

o The sunsets
o Proximity to Kota Kinabalu
o The resort of Tanjung Aru and the room and view

Bad bits -

o None!

balcony view to china sea tanjung aru

tanjung aru bedroom

After checking out, we got a shuttle to the Tanjung Aru Resort and our room was even better! The resort was beautiful, yet very different to it’s sister resort, the Rasa Ria Resort.

Our room was even better – beautifully set out and with a gorgeous view of over the quiet gardens to the sea. We went to the Café Tatu for lunch and sat inside in the air con as it was such a hot day. Michael had the Malaysian chicken with rice, which came with fresh minced ginger garnish, chilli sauce and soy sauce on the side, with a bowl of soup – very good! I had the beef baguette with fries and side salad – also very good, all washed down with a chilly beer!

cafe tatu tanjung aru

cafe tatu lunch

We had a good explore of the large resort, to find where all the bars, restaurants and facilities were. They have a water sports centre right next door, so we booked up some jet skiing.

The first part of the evening we spent photographing and admiring the sunsets. It was stunning, particularly at the sunset bar and across the bay and the beach to the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park. The pool was lit too and very gorgeous.

Dinner that evening was at the Italian on site (Peppino), after a drink in the extremely comfortable lounge bar with guitarist/singer. It is a very sophisticated restaurant, with OK food and good wine. We had tomato and minestrone soup to start, and rack of lamb for main. Unfortunately it was not cooked very well, and I didn’t eat much of mine, but I could honestly say that the food at the Rasa Ria was much better.

kota kinabalu island sunset

sandra at kota kinabalu market

The next day we went jet skiing round the bay which was lots of fun and had a couple of hours on the beach, with a satay chicken lunch before heading into Kota Kinabalu for a wander around, taking in the night market. We had dinner at Little Italy, which had some mixed reviews on trip advisor and it was just about OK I would say. The salad was nice, the tuna pizza was soggy with an overindulgent helping of mozzarella (although I would say it was good to at least get mozzarella in Malysia!) and the spicy vegetarian spaghetti was OK. We went to a club after, which had live music and it was brilliant – we had a good few beers and a boogie and got a couple of requests in – they even did a callout to us as we were foreign – it was a local club and everyone was really friendly and the beer cheap. The music was everything from red hot chilli peppers, to Justin Timberlake, Shakira, Rhianna and YMCA by the Village People,  although we liked the local songs they played a lot too!

michael and I tanjung aru

stir fry buffet tanjung aru

Next day we had a game of pitch and putt in the resort, which was good, and had the Malaysian chicken rice again with a Malaysian noodles.

We then went back up to the night market in Kota Kinabalu and came back for dinner in the resort’s buffet. Again, it is not as good as the Rasa Ria’s but still good. There were Indian curries, Rotis and papadums, Malysian curries, noodles, rice, noodle soups you can make up yourself, stir fries you make yourself and they cook, and a huge array of

desserts tanjung aru

sushi, dim sums, fresh seafood and salads. The dessert counter was just as enticing with cakes, gateaux, ice creams with toppings, and traditional Malaysian desserts.

Unfortunately for us, packing was on the agenda the next morning and was followed by a yummy buffet breakfast. We headed off to the airport and flew to Kuala Lumpur at lunchtime.

sunset over tunku abdul rahman park islands

sunset kota kinabalu

michael and I sunset KK

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

dino with katie rasa ria copyright Sandra M Dean

Rasa Ria Resort, near Kota Kinabalu – 5 nights

Highlights -

o Seeing baby Orangutan orphans being cared for and playing in the trees!
o Being in rainforest and all the noises, yet by the sea too – unique!
o The Resort – Rasa Ria – and the room and view
o The whole experience

Bad bits -

o None!

Creatures we saw there -

• Young Orangutans
• Geckos

mount kinabalu from aeroplane copyright Sandra M Dean

We transferred to Lahad Dhatu airport and got a flight back to Kota Kinabalu (great views and a nice photo of Mount Kinabalu towering over the clouds), ready for an onward transfer with our bags that we had left behind to the Rasa Ria Resort. He was there at the airport and he had our bags – we were so pleased and impressed!

The greeting at the Rasa Ria is a big gong and a welcome drink in the lobby as the receptionist comes to sit with you for check in. The room was fantastic, comfortable and luxurious and the views over the grounds and the sea were breathtaking. Although we were tired, we opted for the best restaurant in the resort for dinner. It was easy to get a table and we had a lovely time, albeit a little chilly due to the air conditioning. Lovely food and wine though and the service was great – its called the ‘Coast’

coast restaurant rasa ria copyright Sandra M Dean

feeding katie vitamins copyright Sandra M Dean

Michael unfortunately fell down the stair in the room, and grazed his head quite badly, so that got a bit infected – no, he wasn’t even drunk at the time!

The next morning we got up early to see the baby Orangutans at the Rasa Ria Rehabilitation Centre. There was a short film and then we had a short walk into the forest to platforms. There were up to 8 of them, and so gorgeous they were too! Every time I saw them I stayed until the end, and it became a daily habit, as I could not resist them. You could get so close to them and they played in the trees, or with each other, or the guide, Dino, would feed them vitamin drinks. Absolutely stunning!

shangri la's rasa ria resort nature reserve orangutan

phad thai at coffee terrace copyright sandra M Dean

For lunch, we opted for room service as we were so tired, and it was fabulous – Satay chicken and Phad Thai with our wonderful view – why not! We dossed in the afternoon and for dinner, we chose the Indian restaurant and it was pretty good. Music by 3 ladies and a guy on a keyboard was the entertainment for the evening and they were really good – and they took requests!

The next day, we opted for a morning view of the Orangutans again spent the afternoon on the beach, with

sunset over bay at rasa ria copyright sandra M Dean

rasa ria room copyright sandra M Dean

kyute bay orangutan copyright sandra M Dean

lunch and a couple of beers and had a wander along the beach to find a melting sandpit – very interesting seeing the Island melting away. We saw the sunset go down and got some great photos, and then had dinner in the Coffee Terrace. We had fish cakes, fish on risotto and Pad Thai and it was ok.

sandra waterskiing from rasa ria

rasa ria beach copyright sandra M Dean

Next day we had another Orangutan viewing and in the afternoon I wanted to do some waterskiing, which had to be done just outside of the bay the resort was in, for safety, and the water was rather polluted with petrol and scum. However, after many attempts to get up on the skis and just about to give up due to frustration I pulled myself up with one big might and had a great ski around the area, past a little village, under a bridge and back again. My arms hurt for a day afterwards, but it was a great experience and I had only done it once before and that was 12 years previously.

tepilaut makan street sir fry choices

indian food tepilaut makan street rasa ria

We had dinner at the buffet ‘Tepilaut – Makan Street’ which was gorgeous – such a variety of foods on offer and many of them cooked for you as you wait (fresh meat and ingredients that you pick yourself). We had duck pancakes, noodle soup and some yummy desserts.

We had a day in Kota Kinabalu, where we enjoyed a coffee and cake at Starbucks for breakfast and looked round the indoor market, had lunch at a fast food type café, shopped around the malls and had a beer in a bar and dinner at ‘Nagisa’ Japanese restaurant in the Hyatt Regency Hotel.

We also did some jet-skiing along the coast of the beach at the Rasa Ria.

The next day we saw the Orangutans and went sailing, but we had a bit of trouble with the wind and capsized it! We were rescued, and had our lifejackets on so it was ok – and a bit of excitement after all! We had a pizza in the restaurant which was ok and the buffet dinner as we were more hungry, trying out the Indian bread (Roti), noodles, prawns, noodle soup, a perfect kung po king prawn made directly by the chefs and sent to our table on request (how lovely) with stir fried vegetables and an array of desserts, including cakes, gateau, ice creams with toppings galore, fresh fruits, jelly’s, traditional Malaysian desserts and even marshmallows dipped in hot chocolate.

sandra with orangutans in background

rasa ria resort view to beach copyright sandra M Dean

I had said we would see the Orang’s in the morning, so we did but I could not resist going to see the babies again in the afternoon, so off we went to see the gorgeous Orang’s playing. It was wonderful and the Ranger, Dino was just fabulous, answering all our questions and the Orang’s were really near.

We then headed to the pool to relax, but decided that it might be nice to stay a little longer, rather than go back the next day, so we deliberated a little and headed back to the room to make the phone calls. Michael sorted it all out in a couple of hours (oh yes!) and we got a flight for 3 days later, so we booked the next 3 nights at the Tanjung Aru Resort in Kota Kinabalu (it is the same company -Shangri-La- just another location nearer to the Town). We ended up booking with the tourist guide as the hotel was charging 150 RM more, believe it or not!

baby orangutan free to play copyright Sandra M Dean

innocent orangutan baby rasa ria copyright sandra M Dean

So, we had a last dinner at the Rasa Ria back at the Coast Restaurant and had a wonderful meal – rack of lamb, duck and an array of desserts – what a finish to our stay. The Rasa Ria is truly a fabulous Resort!

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

canopy walkway danum valley copyright sandra m dean

Borneo Rainforest Lodge – Danum Valley – 3 nights

Highlights -

o Seeing a wild Orangutan male in the trees – free!
o Being in virgin rainforest and all the noises – unique!
o Canopy Walkway
o Trekking

Bad bits -

o None!

Creatures we saw there -

• Orangutans
• Samba deer
• Owl
• Curly big insect???
• Hog – resident to the lodge!
• flying black squirrel
• reptiles
• millipedes
• Termite mounds
• Leeches!
• Flora and Fauna – Fungi
• Turtle
• Red leaf monkeys (otherwise known as Maroon Langur)
•Bornean Gibbon

view of borneo rainforest lodge copyright sandra m dean

resident bornean bearded pig copyright sandra m dean

So, off we went to the Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley. The trip was over a few hours and the last three hours were on rough terrain, as the lodge is in the depths of the virgin rainforest, and well worth all the travel! I must admit we were expecting it to be very basic and possibly worse than the first lodge, but it was much better. On arrival, we had a welcome drink and lunch. I spoke with the waiter to explain that I would require vegetarian food and Michael thought it best he join me, and we were presented with sweet and sour tofu served to the table and then also had the choice from the very varied buffet. We had rice, salad and aubergine washed down by a nice cold well earnt beer! Nearly every meal, a different vegetarian option was served with a smile and it was delicious. I was nearly tempted by the meat and fish dishes as they looked really good, but decided to stay with vegetarian.

chef at borneo rainforest lodge with michael

borneo rainforest lodge dining

We headed straight out onto a trek, and met our very nice guide for the duration of our 3/4 night stay. Groups are small, and the three other girls from our group were tired that afternoon, so we had the guide all to ourselves. We trekked to the canopy walkways and soaked up the fantastic canopy views over and into the rainforest, with its fabulous noises and peace. We found a curly big insect (which I am yet to identify). After another delicious meal for dinner, we went on our night trek in the truck. We were lucky enough to see a Samba deer out feeding very close to the truck, and an owl.

The resident hog was really cute!

logging truck borneo copyright sandra m dean

bornean gibbon copyright sandra m dean

red leaf monkey copyright sandra m dean

After a very nice buffet breakfast, we went on our first morning trek, and firstly saw a gibbon up above swinging happily in the trees. Then a millipede (yet to identify) And various reptiles (yet to identify) We went uphill to the lookout over the rainforest and lodge grounds with the river meandering along, and saw the coffin cliff. On the way up, unfortunately, Michael slipped and somehow did a somersault over the small wooden barrier for the last few steps and he nearly fell down the hillside, but just managed to hold on, so I would be very careful up there!

insect borneo copyright sandra m dean

Saw another millipede (yet to identify). After retrieving Michael’s sunglasses and annoying the guide for wandering off, we met down at the waterfall. We had met a couple who travelled to the lodge with us. They were French Canadians, and had a very young baby with them, which was quite unbelievable, but they took it on their treks and at the waterfall, the father was walking across the top, which was very very slippery, wet and high up and rugged, without even a harness for his baby – just holding it with one arm. Most people on the trip were disgusted by their behaviour, which was clearly selfish, as the baby could have caught something through mosquitoes or the many cockroaches and other insects that bite.

That evening, we saw a flying black squirrel which are remarkably fast and agile and a (yet to be identified). Another lovely dinner, while two couples had a honeymoon candle lit dinner, we then played scrabble. In fact, scrabble and cards were played a lot during this holiday, as it was so relaxing in between the hectic bits!

We were up for a hearty breakfast the next day (all this veggie food makes you hungry!) and so we had hash browns, baked beans in tomato sauce, toast and butter, mushrooms and an omelette. It was lovely and amazing that they can make such good food in such a remote place.

Our morning trek brought us in contact with many more fungi, plants, termite mounds, a turtle (who you can just about spot on my photo) a baboon (yet to be identified) And of course lots more leeches!

anglehead agamid copyright sandra m dean

The next day, our trek brought us more delights, such as fungi, small monkeys, a bird (yet to

flying black squirrel copyright sandra m dean

be identified). The different small monkeys (red leaf monkeys and beige ones – yet to be identified), giant ants and a male wild Orangutan right above our heads!

We went on one last trek before we left, but didn’t have time for much, so walked along the road instead, and we were so pleased we did. We came across the male Orangutan and had around an hour of photographing him- it was wonderful to see this beautiful creature just feet away up in the tree, free and happy! What an end to a fantastic few days at Danum Valley. We had another very relaxing lunch overlooking the rainforest and grounds, and said our goodbyes to our great chef and guide.

wild orangutan danum valley copyright sandra m dean

lahad datu airport copyright sandra m dean

We transferred to Lahad Dhatu airport and got a flight back to Kota Kinabalu (great views and a nice photo of Mount Kinabalu towering over the clouds), ready for an onward transfer with our bags that we had left behind to the Rasa Ria Resort. He was there at the airport and he had our bags – we were so pleased and impressed!

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

proboscis monkey borneo copyright sandra m dean

Sandakan and Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary- 1 night

Highlights -

o Seeing the Proboscis Monkeys and observing their behaviour at the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary
o Sandakan Town
o Sandakan Market and the very friendly people there
o Photo opportunities
o Comfy and clean Hotel

Bad bits -

o Food at the English Tea Rooms

Creatures we saw there -

• Proboscis Monkeys
• Grey monkeys?

oriental pied hornbill borneo copyright sandra m dean

proboscis monkey borneo copyright sandra m dean

We took the boat back to Sandakan in the morning and stayed the night at the Sandakan hotel, which was a wonderful relief, being rather like a Premier Travel Inn – nice and clean. We had a quick breakfast on arrival, dumped our bags and went straight out to the Proboscis Monkey feeding area (Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary), which is little visited by tourists, but they just do not know what they are missing!

These wonderful odd nosed monkeys are fantastic fun and the males love to show off with extravagant entrances and shows to the females. We booked the trip with our guide, and he got one of his friends to take us. It was very easy and he was a great guy.

palm oil plantation near labuk bay copyright sandra m dean

proboscis monkey labuk bay copyright sandra m dean

tea rooms sandakan copyright sandra m dean

Back at Sandakan, we asked him to take us up to the English Tea rooms and had a lovely relax in the shade of the garden, in their colonial surrounding. The view was fantastic, overlooking Sandakan. We had toasted sandwiches served with crinkle chips and scones, but I have to say the bread was not fresh and the scones had been micro waved, so it was not as good as we had though.

view of sandakan copyright sandra m dean

sandakan market copyright sandra m dean

market sandakan copyright sandra m dean

We had a good look around Town, and ventured into the food market. The people are so friendly in Malaysia, and the market was a good example of this. We were able to take lots of photos of the people and food, and even some videos where everyone was waving and laughing. We ventured back up the English Tea rooms for dinner, which started off ok, but our Prawn Laksa absolutely stank, so we didn’t eat it. Michael’s cottage pie was ok. It is a shame, because the surroundings and the wine are great!

As our pickup was gong to be at 6am the next day, we thought we would miss breakfast, but it was served all night due to Ramadam, so that was great for us.

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

beach selingan island copyright sandra m dean

Turtle Island – Selingan – seeing turtles nesting and hatching – 1 night

Highlights -

o Seeing hawksbill turtles nesting
o Seeing tiny hatchling turtles being released into the sea
o Learning about the rescue and plight of the turtles
o Photo opportunities

Bad bits -

o Food
o Not sure whether to believe what is going on

Creatures we saw there -

• Hawksbill Turtles
• Monitor Lizard

bedroom selingan island turtle sabah borneo

fishing boat sandakan copyright sandra m dean

It turned out to be an even earlier start than we had envisaged, as the driver came to pick us up an hour and a half earlier than we had shown on our itinerary. He had to knock at our door and wake us up, so we had to pack fast, whilst two girls waited for us, and hurried off, which spoilt our planned relaxed morning with breakfast. It was a shame as we had quite a long journey ahead of us.

We were taken to Sandakan where we waited for a boat and took the lovely trip over to Selingan Island, to see the turtle landings and hatchlings.

fishing nets sandakan copyright sandra m dean

hawksbill turtle egg chart copyright sandra m dean

Turtle Islands Park is administered by Sabah Parks. On the way, we saw lots of fishing stations with nets (for catching sardines and whitebait). A very unique sight! The accommodation over there is basic and a few people reportedly saw rats, so I didn’t end up eating much – it doesn’t take that much to put me off! When we arrived, we had a couple of hours of free time, so we had a little wander along the beaches, taking photos. We saw the resident huge Iguana at that point. We then had dinner and waited for the turtles to come ashore. During the evening, there is a curfew on walking on the beaches and around, so we stayed by the restaurant area. Michael had a huge cockroach land on his head, so it wasn’t the most relaxing evening. We saw a couple of turtles ashore in the distance, but had to wait for the wardens to call us. In the meantime, we saw a show on the turtles and their hatchlings and the dangers for them (they are a protected species on these few Islands, as into the Phillipines they eat them). The Islands are very close to the Phillipines, and there are also protected Islands within their archapelego. We also got to see the area where they bury and protect the eggs, once they have collected them. As usual, there are always some idiots who do not want to do as they are told (ie not use flash photography) and nearly closed down our tour, even after two warnings. We were also called out again when they had some hatchlings ready to go into the water, which was a fabulous sight. Only a tiny percentage of the hatchlings will survive, so it is sad, but it was so cute seeing them running into the water and swimming away. They take quite a bit of coaxing with a guy in the water with a torch trying to lead them in, as they cannot make their own way to the sea.

hawksbill turtle laying copyright sandra m dean

monitor lizard selingan island copyright sandra m dean

Luckily we were the first group to see the Turtle laying her eggs, as it was quite a wait and the second group didn’t see it until gone 11pm (not that late I know but it is when you are heading off the next morning and have been travelling for quite a while – and its hot!). So, the turtle had already dug her hole and we watched her lay her eggs, whilst the guys collected them. I didn’t really like it, as it seemed a shame that all these people were surrounding her and taking photos (no flash or videos of course!) but it was a good experience for us anyway, and that is what they do

artificial turtle nests copyright sandra m dean

turtle eggs selingan sabah copyright sandra m dean

over there. The way it was presented did leave me a little sceptical though as to how much they are doing to help and preserve the turtles and how much of it was just an ‘island moneymaker’ for profit. Still, at least it is better that there are some saved than none at all. The report for the 11th September 2008 was 29 landings. Out of that, there were 27 nesting, 2070 eggs in total between them, and 1511 hatchlings released. Like the Orangutan and other species, I am not sure of the reality of the governments desire to help these creatures outside of tourist income generated events.

promontory selingan island copyright sandra m dean

See the itinerary for this trip here

sepilok feeding copyright sandra m dean

Sepilok 2nd visit – staying at the Sepilok Jungle Resort – 1 night

Highlights -

o Seeing Orangutans up close
o Watching Orangutan behaviour
o Learning about the rescue and plight of these poor creatures
o Photo opportunities
o Night tour, seeing many nocturnal creatures – lesser malay mousedeer, a stick insect and a western tarsier
o Baboons

Bad bits -

o None!

Creatures we saw there -
• Orangutans
• Macaques
• Baboons

mother and baby orangutan copyright sandra m dean

orangutan copyright sandra m dean

The Sepilok Jungle Resort is a huge area right in the forest, with a small waterway, bridged walkways, and lots of flora, fauna and creatures! The grounds really were amazing – the room was not. It had air-conditioning, but it smelt damp and was extremely basic and small. So, we decided to go straight out, and have a good look round, take photos and after a very nice lunch there, we had another visit to the Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre. As long as the Orangutans are around, I will be with them as much as possible, whether it be in a zoo, monkey world or borneo, so I was in my element there.

sepilok copyright sandra m dean

sepilok Jungle resort copyright sandra m dean

The second trip to Sepilok was just as good as the first.  On our way in, we spotted a mother and young baby high in the trees. There were also some baboons on this trip and many of the smaller monkeys. Then along came the Orangs…… We had an older female to start with, who fed with the guys on the platform and the mother and baby came down to feed as well, which was great. A couple more adults came down, but not much feeding going on, so the small monkeys (Macaques) were lucky. They had been lurking underneath the platform, taking chances to fly onto the platform and steal a banana or two, but once the platform was deserted, they had a feast. Then a gorgeous young male orangutan (Mika, 7 years old) came to the platform and chilled out for a while, which was quite a show, as he lay there playing with his legs in the air. Got some wonderful photos of him and it was a very enjoyable afternoon.

Night tour

western tarsier copyright sandra m dean

We booked to go on a night tour of Sepilok and were very glad we did, after the initial ‘I cant be bothered to get my leech socks and boots and mossie spray on!’ conversation….. We had a great guide and trekked with one other couple, who were from Holland. It was a great trip and we viewed quite a lot, but didn’t get photos of everything. We saw a lesser malay mousedeer, a stick insect and we were very lucky to see a western tarsier, of which I got some great photos, followed by a huge gecko.

We had a nice dinner and a game of cards back at the Sepilok jungle resort, and went to bed for an early start in the morning.

To see the first visit to Sepilok click HERE

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

palm oil kernel copyright sandra m dean

Seeing palm oil plantations

As we made our way to the Sepilok Jungle Resort, where we stayed that night, the guide showed us some palm kernels – the type which are being grown absolutely everywhere for its oil. Ok, they can make cooking oil, soap and lots of other stuff from it, and it brings wealth into the Country, but they are cutting down all the rainforest to plant them! This was my main reason for going to Borneo – to see what is going on with the plantations, and the damage they are doing to the forest’s inhabitants – particularly the Orangutans! He showed us the husk and the inside, and explained its many uses, but the fact that a whopping 80% of the virgin rainforest has been destroyed in favour of planting palms, does not convince me of it’s good! Imagine what the lack of natural rainforest must be doing to the food chain, the environment and possibly the ozone!

palm oil plantatiion copyright sandra m dean

palm oil mound copyright sandra m dean

palm oil copyright sandra m dean

However, throughout our whole journey in Sabah, no matter where we went, the landmass was covered in palm plantations as far as the eye can see. This is terribly harmful – read my report on the situation here

palm oil conditions copyright sandra m dean

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

gomantong cave entrance copyright sandra m dean

Gomantong cave

Highlights -

o Interesting to see the harvest tactics for swifts nests
o Feeling of relief when leaving the cockroaches and creepy crawlies behind!

Bad bits -

o Cockroaches and creepy crawlies

creepy crawlies cave sabah copyright sandra m dean

After breakfast, we got the boat back to the information centre and the bus (just us two on it with the guide which was great!) to the Gomantong caves, where the swifts build their nests, which are collected 2/3 times a year for the very expensive birds nest soup. The collection is carried out by a family group, who have been doing it for many years, handing the job down to younger relatives as the years go on. It is a very hazardous job, as the ladders that they climb are around 40 foot and are very flimsy. They have to climb up and bend into holes to get the nests out, and the job carries a very high risk of falling off! On the way to the caves, we spotted an eagle sitting on the top of a pylon, and a really cool lizard. At the entrance to the caves, we were met by a stench that really took your breath away! Apparently, this is the guama – basically the bat poo. The cave

gomantong cave cockroaches

is filled with swifts, bats and a rather unsavoury mix of insects and creatures! Beware, if you go there, as you will not be told about the very slippery floor, the fact that you cannot use the help of the railings to keep your balance as they are covered in cockroaches, and the smell. I am a bit of a wimp with creatures like that, but I made it round, just about, as I don’t like being beaten and I saw where the security guy has to sleep when on shift – right inside the cave! But the thousands of cockroaches, other creepy crawlies and the fact that you have to hang on for dear life (I am quite a fit woman) made it quite an experience! I am still glad I went though, as it was interesting.

gomantong cave working conditions copyright sandra m dean

gomantong cave ladder copyright sandra m dean

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here

melapi lodge

Melapi lodge – Kinabatangan River , Sukau – 2 nights

Highlights -

o Night boat journey in search of nocturnal creatures
o Spotting Wild Proboscis Monkeys
o Spotting a Wild Orangutan with baby in the trees – free!

Bad bits -

o Food
o Cold water for showers

Creatures we saw there -

• Orangutans
• Proboscis Monkeys
• Green Viper
• Egret
• Snake Bird (Anhinga)
• Hornbill
• Macaques
• Blued eared Kingfisher
• Pied fantail
• Stork billed kingfisher
• Flying fox
• Baby crocodile
• Monitor lizard
• Mangrove snake (black/yellow)

melapi lodge copyright Sandra M Dean

kinabatangan river copyright Sandra M Dean

We then headed off to the Melapi lodge on the Kinabatangan River, via a short stop to get groceries and drinks for our room. We were mighty pleased about that once we savoured the non-delights of the restaurant there. On arrival we were shown to our lodge, which was basic but clean – the best bit was the air conditioning and the verandah at the front and the worst bit was probably the freezing cold shower that, instead of being in a cubicle, took up the whole bathroom and soaked everything. I like cool showers when I am hot, but that was a bit much! Lunch was served first, and although Michael tucked into some meat dishes, I stayed well clear, due to the flies and general first impressions of the place. I had rice and cabbage, which I jazzed up with some bottled chilli sauce, and it was pleasant enough washed down with a couple of Carlsberg’s! Our guide took us on an afternoon cruise in a small wooden boat that took about 8 people, which we were not quite prepared for, as the heavens opened and we got

proboscis monkey

snake bird anhinga

green viper copyright Sandra M Dean

absolutely soaked on the boat. We did manage to see wild Proboscis monkeys and a green Viper very close up. I had taken a couple of plastic bags for my camera bag and a waterproof jacket, but it was not enough for the downpour, so I chose to protect my cameras instead of myself, as water certainly was not going to harm me in that heat anyway! After quite a few minutes of floating downriver in the rain, we all decided, to my delight, to go back to the lodge.
Unfortunately, I then got a bad stomach and so we had to miss the next day’s trip out to Oxbow Lake, but apparently they did not see much.

gecko

breakfast at melapi lodge

egret copyright Sandra M Dean

Feeling better by the evening, we booked to go on the evening boat tour, and found ourselves on our own with a very nice guide, who could spot creatures unbelievably well in the dark, with just a

crocodile kinabatangan copyright sandra m dean

blue eared kingfisher copyright Sandra M Dean

eagle copyright Sandra M Dean

torch. We spotted a baby crocodile, a huge Iguana, a swamp snake, a beautiful kingfisher (apparently they are in a trance in the evening so although they have their eyes open, they are actually not responsive unless in danger, so I was able to stroke the bird which was a wonderful experience) and a fantastic giant butterfly. It was well worth the trip out and I would recommend it.

After breakfast, we got the boat back to the information centre and the bus (just us two on it with the guide which was great!) to the Gomantong caves, where the swifts build their nests, which are collected 2/3 times a year for the very expensive birds nest soup.

See the itinerary for the rest of this trip here